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Just ignore everything except the three LEDs in the lower left corner and the 8 button bank switch. Now that I've gotten this to work maybe I can get to bed on time instead of suddenly noticing it's 3am. Fortunately I'm both a bachelor and a geezer. LOL!
Chester...this is quite elegant...I think this Youtube video may go 'viral'.
Here's how to wire the 8 buttons so that they output binary numbers from 0 to 7.
Looks cool.. I like the video.. Do you want it in binary format? Why not just have 8 leds? One for each switch?
Just curious on the thought process?
Channel selection on the Muppet is done by presenting binary 000 through 111 to pins CS0, SC1 and CS2. The eight buttons are wired accordingly. (See drawing above and my YouTube demo.) Each of the eight buttons controls four switches simultaneously. Three are used to create that binary number. The fourth lights an LED showing which button was pushed and which channel was selected. My drawing shows how to wire the gang so they out put 0 through 7 in binary. ¿Entender?
I have two more ganged switches on order. I intend to wire one of them using a wire wrap tool if I can borrow one from someone. Else I might just have to buy one for myself. Anyone who has a wire wrap to lend for an evening please contact me. I can even do it in a few minutes after an OMARC meeting. Much thanks in advance!
Here's my current drilling pattern for the folded aluminum bottom part of my Ritron project. A few more holes will be needed for the radio board itself which will sit on stand offs and some other stuff. On the right is a pattern for the speaker. I'm considering drilling some tiny holes and gluing LEDs behind them using epoxy. Tiny light will be enough to show which channel button is pushed in.
REALLY SWEET! Did you use corel for this?
Things have turned out a little different than my original plan. I consider that good. This is a front view of my project showing the gang of switches not yet affixed to the chasis. The holes above each button (they look like cylinders) are for the channel LEDs which I'm considering gluing to the back of the holes. Alternatively I might attach them to an aluminum bar and not use glue at all. I will need to drill a few more holes for an on/off switch and a power indicator LED. Also a hole is needed for the mic jack. I have finally decided to use Ritron's own RM-7 mic which has their weird looking logo. Their mic, however, is ready to work with their board with no modifications. I'm mulling over a spot for a 1/4" headphone jack as well. Here's a front view...
In this view you can see some of the guts inside. The board has been spun around 180 since this photo was taken. I will need to make three special brackets to hold the gang switch and perhaps the channel LEDs. On the back, the power connectors and a fuse holder are already installed. The BNC antenna connector is also in but I intend to add an SO-239 in parallel with it as well, I think to the left of the BNC. Toward the bottom on the right I will add a 1/8" audio jack that cuts out the speaker when in use. I run my other radios through a mixing board and some nice studio speakers. The board has some signal enhancing gear plugged into it so I can soup up the audio to some degree. Here's a photo of the back...
The bottom view shows my homemade speaker grill and some rubber feet. If you want to make a grill like mine there's an easy way to do it. I attached a sheet of grill metal I got at P&T Surplus (Abeel St., Kingston, NY) to the chassis using clamps and used it as a template. The bit I selected was exactly the same size as the holes in the template. The actual drilling was done on my drill press but theoretically you could do your drilling by hand. After drilling I sanded over the holes to make them look like they had been punched. Results...a factory finish speaker grill. Here's the photo...
Quite amazing...and attractive Chester. Thanks for keeping us apprised of this project. Inspiring.
This is a shot of the top. I liked the speaker grill idea so much that I decided to make a ventilation grill on the top. No doubt the circuit board will be creating some BTUs so I might as well make my project exothermic while I'm at it. The method of making perfect grills is the same one I used for the speaker grill on bottom except that there are a lot more holes on the top vent. In the background you can see the can of automotive wrinkle paint I'm planning to use. Perhaps you've seen wrinkle paint on an old film camera. It's a beautiful industrial looking finish that I really want to use on this project. I have done a bit of experimenting with wrinkle paint and have perfected a method that gives a "factory" looking finish. Only the top, left and right sides of the radio will get this treatment. The back will be clear coated aluminum and have something else more tricky planned for the front. Here's a shot of the top ready for painting...
Below is a picture of Ritron's model RM-7 microphone. It uses only two wires for both the "push to talk" function and for the audio. I like that. It's easier than modifying the El Cheapo BaoFeng mic, plus the RM-7 is pretty El Cheapo it's self. Sixteen bucks and change plus shipping. It will require one 2.5mm jack on the front panel reducing the number of holes that need drilling from two (with exact spacing between them) to a mere one. And Ritron's super ugly and completely meaningless logo is clearly visible on its molded plastic case; I'm ok with that. In fact I'm thinking of a way to re-create this most idiotic design on the top of my project case. Using a CNC router I could cut it out of 1/8" aluminum and epoxy it place - then bury it under the paint job. After everything is dry I would sand through the paint so the aluminum comes to the surface. This concept is conditional and depends solely upon the ratio between my ambition and my tendency toward sloth. As you, no doubt, already suspect I tend more toward the sloth side of things. Maybe that is why RM-7's two wire system seems so appealing to me. Yeah, screw the embossed ugly logo idea. (I chuckle.) Photo below...hey check out that groovy metal clip...very cool.....
Nice project progress update Chester, especially on your enclosure. For the microphone and expanding on your vote behind the "one hole" needed for the Ritron RM-7, have a look at how Yaesu implements a speaker mic using a TRRS style connector which is the same 3.5mm but with 4 connections.
This may also give you some ideas, say, for plugging in headphones or a speaker/mic or just a mic.
Here is how I used the TRRS for data only use. http://omarcclub.org/forum/discussion/71/yaesu-mpet#latest
My off the shelf speaker/mic works fine with it too and I use a switch to toggle out the speaker in the mic with a larger one built in to my enclosure for better fidelity.
I have been neglectful of the MPET project for a few months now, but will get back to it after I wrap a few other things up in the month or two ahead.
Keep on trucking!!!! ( as some may say)
I just ordered the mic on E-Bay. Its estimated delivery date is Friday, July 14. So I'm looking for the jack now, and also an SO239 antenna connector. I have some of those but they're all soldered into other projects...(clears throat)...I can wait.
Ok, here we go. The top painted with black wrinkle paint. It's hard to see one tiny little flaw in the finish that I only noticed while I was driving it home. So I thought I'd just show it to you and repaint on Monday so it doesn't drive me crazy. No, you can't see it in the photo, but it's there...